If I am early to meet friends in Manchester, which is regularly, you can always find me in a wine bar. I have a few favourites, that I’ll definitely share with you soon, but I can guarantee I’ll be propping up the bar with a glass of wine and a cheese board if I’m feeling peckish. I love the laidback style of a wine bar and I feel perfectly comfortable sitting on my own with my book, watching the world go by. Masterchef winner Simon Wood opened his restaurant in the City in 2o17, and has now converted the space on the mezzanine level, honouring cheese and wine with Homage at Wood. Is this a new space for me to indulge my love of fromage?
The space is above the main restaurant with a large window, meaning you can people watch whilst enjoying the Homage experience. The decor is luxe, with beautiful tall candles for sultry lighting. The intimate room can seat just 16 people, meaning it feels super exclusive and private. It is a truly lovely space with modern classical music being played lightly, just loud enough to hear but not to take away from the conversation you have with your date.
The concept is simple but perfectly executed; you can choose from beautifully paired cheese and chutneys with wine, or go all out for the full experience with the tasting menu. Yes, a cheese and wine tasting menu. Naturally, we did the latter. There are two different options here too, which either ‘favourites’ or ‘classic’ wines. We tried one of each, for your benefit obviously.
Before I get started, it is really important to note that each cheese plate is delivered with crackers that are made in-house. They are absolutely delicious, to the point that I asked several times for them to package me some up to go. I would happily buy these to eat at home. They have the perfect crunch but melt in the mouth. I devoured them, well beyond the point that I was full.
Anyway, first on the tasting menu was Brillat Savarin au Truffe. This insanely creamy cheese is laced with truffle, that adds a little savoury flavour without overpowering that gorgeous smooth creamy feel. It was actually my favourite cheese of the night and I would have been happy with a full plate of it. When paired with the Schloss Johannisberg, Riesling ‘Bronzelack’, the savoury notes are heightened, whilst the Exton Park RB32 Brut brings out the acidity. Everyone knows how much I love a glass of fizz, so naturally the latter was my favourite pairing but both were perfect.
Are these two not the prettiest cheeses you have ever seen? Alp Blossom and L’Etivaz cheeses served with BBQ Pineapple and Rowan. Both Swiss, the cheeses both have a distinct nuttiness yet the L’Etivaz leaves a smokiness on the palate. With the Rolly Gassman, Sylvaner the nuttiness of the Alp Blossom is heightened, whilst delicious honey notes are brought out by the L’Etivaz. With the Muré, Gewürztraminer, creamy notes are brought out by the L’Etivaz and an almost marmalade note by the Alp Blossom. Such an interest taste sensation that I was not expecting!
Moving onto more complex flavours, next is a pair of Goats cheeses; Cerney and Driftwood with Roasted Red Pepper and Chilli. I was a little worried that the chilli in the chutney (all of which, are also made in-house) would overpower the flavours of the cheese, but being roasted removes the heat from the chilli, leaving behind a rich and intense flavour. Both are ash coated, yet the Driftwood has a much higher level of creaminess. Both wine options are red, which I wasn’t massively looking forward to with not being a big red wine drinker, but the Apostolos Thymiopoulos, Xinomavro is really smoothed out and brings out the creaminess even further in the Driftwood yet gets a more jammy note with the Cerney. The Pierre-Naigeon, Hautes-Cotes de Nuits has delicious vanilla notes when paired with both cheeses.
Next was a cheese that definitely isn’t new to me! Mrs Kirkham’s with Braised Ox Cheek, served in an onion skin. This absolute taste sensation, complete with that onion skin, works so well with both wines it is paired with. The Pulenta Estate, Malbec is packed with blackberries and red fruit that become almost sweet when paired with the cheese. The Casa Ferreirinha, Quinta da Leda has light tannins and really brought out that meatiness. Excellent choices for such strong flavours.
Our last cheese is the Stichelton with an assiette of beetroot, including candied beetroot and white beetroot peel. The cheese on its own is so unique and different to anything I have tried before, and that is some feat considering I’ve judged hundreds of cheeses at the International Cheese Awards for some years. Similar to a stilton, it has an almost toasted flavour with a touch of acidity. Paired with two dessert wines, the Orernus, Late Harvest Tokaji is full of honey with the cheese and really mellows it out. The advertised Italian wine was not available, so this was replaced with Heidi Schrock & Sohne, Beerenauslese. Considering how intricately the wines are paired with the cheeses and how unusual they all are, this late addition worked beautifully and has bags of gooseberry flavour when paired with the cheese.
As you would expect from Simon and his Wood Restaurant, the service is top notch from start to finish. We were greeted with the option to enjoy a drink prior to heading up to the Homage space, and thoroughly enjoyed a glass of Exton Park sparkling Rosé whilst watching the chefs at work in the open kitchen. Each plate of cheese and glass of wine is introduced by the exceptionally knowledgable staff, who know exactly the origins of both and explain why they were chosen for the menu.
The in-house sommelier James, was also around the restaurant all night and popped up a few times to talk wine. Something I thoroughly enjoyed. The wines are so unique and sourced from locations you have probably never thought of when it comes to wine. From Greece to Hungary, I guarantee even the most experienced wine drinker will find a new gem here.
Whilst I cannot wait to go back and experience Homage again, I believe there is a new cocktail menu that bartender Jack has been working on. I mean, if the cheese and wine can’t lure me back, that certainly will!
