My favourite stop on my trip to Polandwas Gdansk. The port city on the Baltic Sea saw incredible devastation during World War II which, has shaped its culture and food scene ever since. We gathered at Pod Lososiem, one of the oldest and most famous restaurants in Gdansk, to meet with Artur Michna. Artur is a Polish food critic who loves Gdansk and was only too willing to share some of the history of the city and the restaurant. Here are some of my favourite facts about the food in Gdansk.
- Gdansk was once governed by knights who believed that meals should contain a fish course and a meat course. This tradition is still common place in Poland and we absolutely witnessed this during our trip with 6-7 course meals consisting of 2 main courses.
- Thanks to all the granaries in Gdansk, here were lots of breweries and this is still the case in Gdansk. The first beers in Gdansk were called yoppen and were thick and syrupy. The consistency meant it was often used as a medicine and the recipe has been brought back to life recently with a local brewery now bringing it back into production. It tastes of bitter chocolate, prunes and tobacco and is incredibly strong so is best to be sipped if you try it.
- Import is a big part of the culinary culture in Gdansk and brought vanilla, pepper and spices to the city. It was around this time that a Dutch man brought the ‘goldvasser’, which was then distilled on site at Lod Lososiem in 1598. The famous vodka is still popular in Gdansk and I would recommend getting a sample when visiting the restaurant, which has been lovingly restored to how it looked around that time in history.
- Coffee was introduced to the western world in the 16th century and arrived in the port of Gdansk in the following century. 3 years later the first coffee house opened in the city.
- After the reconstruction following WWII, it wasn’t clear what Gdansk cuisine was. An old cookbook was found dating back to these times which contained 18 simple recipes for soups, dumplings, breads and mead. All of these things are now Polish specialties and have strong roots in Gdansk. The cookbook has since been translated and is available to buy in Gdansk.
- Poorer people in Gdansk ate herring with cabbage, which is cheap to source in the city. The more affluent people ate game and fish with beer to wash it down.
- A popular drink in Gdansk was made with cream, almonds, rum and sugar. A local ice cream shop now makes this as an ice cream flavour and I will head back, if nothing else to try this! It is a traditional recipe and has a wonderful floral aroma. Just after the war almonds and figs were a luxury.
- As you can imagine, fish is a popular food item in Gdansk and zander is incredibly popular due to its presence in the coastal areas of the Baltic Sea. It is similar to cod with a meaty texture that works really well when paired with herbs and spices. Plaice and flounder are also popular in Gdansk and are served from stalls in summer with chips.
- Garfish is also popular and is similar to eel but softer with a blue backbone. It is served when in season, around May-June. Carp is also popular but around Christmas time making it a festive addition to a lot of Gdansk Christmas dinners.
- Baltic salmon is very different to the bright pink fish we see in the UK. The fish are smaller and more yellow in colour. It is not as tender as it is in the UK as the water temperature means the fish move around more, making the flesh a lot more dense.
There is my random rundown of foodie facts that I learned in Gdansk and I would absolutely suggest you visit for a city break. The Dutch style buildings are beautiful and thanks to the Polish Zloty, it is incredibly reasonable to eat and drink your way around. Let me know if you go!
